JGAurora A5 Suggestions and Profile

I am seeing more people with this machine I thought i would break it off into a post so it can be searched and seen by more people.

Everything noted below is my last year playing with my machine and dialing it in. This is no way the only things and route to go with this printer but mostly a starting point.

Alright here it goes.

This profile is for non-upgraded stepper drivers, ie stock. I was able to get good prints with the retraction up to 12. Yes it is high compared to normal machines but still works.

https://mega.nz/#!3KZkzQbK!AhHgvi7SJQwzigz7qFvKCF6jGwgnpx6YqO7Q_3XyJhY

Also included in this

What you need to test with

  • HIGHLY suggest using cura 4 (as of this date). It slices faster and fixes bugs. the UI is now different but an over better version
  • You might need to enable coasting in order to help reduce stringing. its not on in my profile as i have upgraded drivers (below)
  • Print temp might need to be dialed in but i have found good results with my settings. It tall depends on brands. I leave my bed at 60 the whole print.

What I suggest

  • TAKE OFF the horizontal metal piece in front of the X axis. Its the black metal that should have printed “3D printer”. This will save you the headache in the future to figure out why your machine is making a loud noise. The metal warps slightly and the carriage drags on it
  • HIGHLY suggest to upgrade the printer firmware to the community 1.1.8. It fixes issues that JGAurora doesn’t want to within its stock software. Also upgrade the LCD firmware while you are at it. https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/firmware
  • Once you do the above firmware upgrade set up mesh leveling. Mesh leveling you will probe multiple areas of the bed and get a true level of it. but this can only be done with upgraded firmware. https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/mesh-bed-levelling-routine
  • Do a PID test ( https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/p-i-d-auto-tune-guide/ ) and a calibration tests ( https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/ )
  • Printing a new fan duct as stated above. This will help with bridging and overall cooling https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789066
  • Installing new stepper drivers I use TMC 2208. This would of course need you to open it up, install, wipe eprom (using pronterface and send commands M502 and M500). It makes the machine much quieter and you can stand to be in the same room. NOTE: make sure that you follow the correct procedure for the TMC drivers you buy ( https://jgaurorawiki.com/a5/upgrade-stepper-drivers-tmc ) If you install TMC driver on the extruder you will need to dial in your retractions again. Mine went back down to 5mm at 60mms
  • Nice but not needed upgrade is a BLTouch (NOT 3dtouch, yes they are cheaper but you get what you pay for). This way you will never have to manually level your bed again. Price is steep at first, as i debated buying it for months, but the results are great. (do not have link yet as I am creating a blog post about issues and correct way to install)

NOTES:

  • I never use something sticky on the bed with dialing in your settings. Once you get mesh leveling it should stick good. Always clean the bed with rubbing alcohol before every print. In time cleaning the best you can and releveling will seem not to work anymore. I suggest taking the glass bed off and washing it with soap (i use dish soap) and water. Rinse completely, dry, and reinstall the bed.
  • Most of the time you want hotter first layer printing then dial it back. Nozzle starts at 215 and drops to 210. I leave bed at 60
  • You can print at 65mms but the machine doesnt seem to like going above that as it acts/sounds like its struggling. I typically print at 45mms. Remember if you print faster you might need higher temps and more shells so that you do not see infill.
X Close
0